This is everything you need to know before visiting Varanasi, India’s most sacred city, to feel prepared for the whole experience that awaits you! I will cover how to get there, how to fully experience the burning ghats, where to stay and the best things to do.
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commision if you purchase through my link, at no extra cost to you.
MY INSIGHT BEFORE WE GET INTO IT…
When I say that nothing could have prepared me for what I witnessed in Varanasi, I mean every single word. I had never, and still have not to this date, experienced anything like it. Every single one of my senses were captivated by this place, by the people, by everything that was happening around me. I hardly slept during my days here because I just wanted to be in the midst of it all. I wanted to see everything, feel everything, take in every moment from sunrise to sunset and throughout the night time because I just knew how special of an experience it is to be in such an extraordinary place.
Even as I type these words, I am transported back into being there. Fully. Sensational. The energy of being in the presence of SO much rawness comes flooding back to me. And I say that in the best sense of those words possible. Varanasi was my very last stop on my 2 year journey in India. And after EVERYTHING that I lived and breathed in this country, to end it here was pure magic and perfection. It was the cherry on top of what was already the experience of a lifetime.
LIFE AND DEATH
Oh, Varanasi – to feel so pulled down to Earth, grounded in the real, raw, human experience, to be humbled in a way I cannot describe through what I saw here, and at the same time to feel elevated and inspired and invite a sense of ultimate freedom through life and death here is truly a feeling you could only ever understand when you yourself are immersed in a place like this.
And now, I will do my best to share my experience in Varanasi, the most sacred city in India. And everything you need to know about visiting here, what there is to do and how you can also have the most unbelievable and memorable experience that you most certainly won’t ever forget.
AN INTRODUCTION TO THE SPIRITUAL, SACRED AND ABSOLUTELY CAPTIVATING CITY OF VARANASI:
Varanasi is one of seven sacred places in all of India. It is considered the spiritual heart of India, as well as one of the world’s oldest cities. Varanasi sits along the left bank of the holy Ganga River in the state of Uttar Pradesh. People from all over the world come to visit this sacred city.
Varanasi is where the deceased, and those at the end of their lives, come to be delivered from their sins and reach nirvana after life on Earth. The energy and impact that Varanasi had on me is something I will never be able to put into words. You need to experience it for yourself to fully understand the feeling that comes with being in the heart of the life and death cycle of Hinduism.
As you wander through the narrow winding allyways of Varanasi, you will encounter a sensational world of extreme sights, sounds and experiences. The ghats are a series of steps leading down to the Ganga, which are the focal point of life in Varanasi. Here, you will witness a wide range of activities unfolding against the backdrop of the river – from spirituality, rituals and ceremonies, locals bathing and even the occasional floating dead cow.
Varanasi is probably the most unique and unforgettable city I have ever been to. It is an absolute MUST on any India journey.
HOW TO GET TO VARANASI:
air:
We highly recommend flying if it fits within your budget, as Varanasi is quite far from the other destinations in North India.
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) in Varanasi is the main airport. You can take a domestic flight from major Indian cities like Delhi, Mumbai and others to Varanasi. There are TukTuks and taxis outside the airport ready to take you to the main area and ghats of Varanasi.
You can use Skyscanner to conveniently compare flight prices and book your tickets to and from Varanasi.
TRAIN:
Varanasi Junction (BSB) is one of the busiest train stations in India and is well connected to major cities across India. Kashi Railway Station is another main train station in Varanasi. You can find trains from cities like Delhi, Mumbai and Agra to Varanasi. Indian trains have a variety of speed options, including express, super fast and premium trains. So, you can choose one that fits your schedule and budget. The journey from Delhi to Varanasi can take 10-16 hours depending on the train that you elect to take.
ROAD:
You can find both local and private bus companies operating from various cities to Varanasi. If you elect to take this route it will be a very long journey. Delhi to Varanasi by bus can take anywhere from 13-18 hours.
12GO is a great platform to check schedules and book your train, bus or private taxi tickets.
DO I NEED A CAR OR MOTORBIKE IN VARANASI?
Having your own transportation here is not necessary at all as you will be walking to the majority of destinations. You can reach many different parts of Varanasi solely from walking along the ghats, without needing to walk through the crazy streets. Taxis/TukTuks are readily available in most parts of the city if you need access around the city.
HOW TO GET AROUND:
You will most likely be staying on the ghats along the Ganga River. These alley ways and paths between the ghats, restaurants and the river are very narrow so the only way is to walk to where you need to be. If you need to go into the city you can easily find a TukTuk or taxi on the road.
PRO TIP FOR ANY TRAVELERS HEADING TO NEPAL AFTER INDIA:
For those of you who wish to travel onward to Nepal from India, going from Varanasi is the most convenient way. From Varanasi you can take a bus or train to a city named Gorakhpur, located near the Nepal-India border. It takes approximately 6-8 hours by road or 7-9 hours by train.
From Gorakhpur, you can travel to the Sunauli border crossing, which is the nearest major border checkpoint between India and Nepal. You can take a local bus, taxi or shared jeep from Gorakhpur to Sunauli, which takes around 3-4 hours.
THE CHAOS…
Be prepared for an assault on all of your senses! Varanasi is truly one of the most intense and magical destinations on the planet. And it is definitely not for the faint of heart. You will be walking through large crowds and noisy streets and witnessing the most sacred ceremonies on Earth that you have never seen anywhere else before.
While this can certainly be overwhelming and chaotic, Varanasi is a safe place to travel to. As with almost all tourist destinations in India, the people are so helpful and welcoming. It is best to embrace the craziness and soak in this epic cultural experience of a lifetime.
If you ever need anything or you need some direction here, you can always ask your guest house owner. When we were there, we noticed a big police presence all throughout the alley ways that lead to and from the ghats. So if you need help while you are out and about you can also ask them.
THE BURNING GHATS
Hindu families come to pay their respects to deceased loved ones through an ancient ritual of burning the bodies in ceremony along the banks of the Ganga River in one of the 2 burning Ghats (Manikarnika, the main one, and Harishchandra). This is a cultural, spiritual and religious experience that will stick with you for the rest of your life. And something that you will not see anywhere else in the world.
You can either organize a guided tour beforehand. Or you can walk to the main Burning Ghat where you will be met by one of the people who work and assist in the ceremonies. The latter is what I did. And I could not have asked for a more memorable experience in this powerful ceremony.
If you are feeling nervous about going to the Burning Ghats alone, you can ask your hotel or guesthouse to help organize a trustworthy local guide to fetch you from the hotel and take you there safely. I will be honest that it was very chaotic going there alone (my partner and I) but we did not feel unsafe at all. It can just be very confusing when you have a lot of people talking to you, families walking past with deceased loved ones through the streets, loud music and arriving at an intense site if you are unsure about who to ask about taking you through the ghat.
The moment you walk into the Burning Ghat, you cannot help but feel the powerful energy of it all. The man who met us at the entrance guided us through the entire structure from beginning to end. He told us all about how the ceremonies are carried out and the significance of the rituals. We were able to watch a family performing their rituals in ceremony. To bear witness to one of the most spiritual experiences in India was a feeling I will never forget.
THE BOAT RIDE:
A MUST! Another way to experience the Burning Ghats is by boat ride. My partner and I also did this, and it was such a unique experience. Although you are not in the middle of it all, you can get a clear view of the ghats and the beautiful architecture and artwork of Varanasi. We would highly recommend doing this as well!
You can also book a tour for this before you arrive. I highly recommend a sunrise boat experience and a sunset boat ride. I did both (multiple times!) and I actually cannot tell you which one was more amazing because they were both so beautiful.
What we did when we wanted to go on the boat ride was go down to where the boats are docked and asked a local man directly if he could take us on his boat. He ended up being our boat guy for all of our days there! He even came to fetch us from the steps of our hotel for one of our sunrise boat rides. We also just paid him accordingly to how long we spent on the boat each time. He even took us to the sandy island banks in the middle of the river for sunsets and sunrises.
WHERE TO STAY IN VARANASI
Varanasi is extremely dense and absolutely filled with accommodation options. We recommend staying as close to the main ghats as possible and better yet, with a view of the river.
BUDGET – MID-RANGED:
- Dwivedi Hotels Palace On Steps – on the river banks, rooms with a beautiful river view!
- Zostel Varanasi – the Zostels in India are always an amazing place to stay, with lovely views, dorm rooms and private rooms.
LUXURY:
- BrijRama Palace – literally most beautiful accommodation I saw in the whole of Varanasi! This place is absolutely spectacular!
- Amritara Suryauday Haveli – on the banks of the Ganga with beautiful rooms in classic architecture.
- Guleria Kothi Hotel – a stunning hotel with a beautiful outside seating space on the banks of the Ganga River.
WHAT TO DO IN VARANASI:
- Explore the Ghats – the best way to explore Varanasi is by walking along its many ghats. There is no shortage of interesting people-watching to do along the river. This is best way to appreciate the beauty of the architecture around the city.
- Experience full spiritual essence of Varanasi – a place to visit temples and mosques, appreciate the ancient architecture, the Ganga River and experience the music, festivals and flavors of India. The city is dotted with ancient temples, including the Kashi Vishwanath Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, and the Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple, believed to fulfill wishes and alleviate troubles.
- Take a boat to the sandbank – when the Ganga River is low, you can take a boat across the water to the sandbank which has a unique landscape with a view of the city skyline along the riverbank. This is especially stunning at sunset time. This was one of our favorite things to do in Varanasi as you can get away from the crowds and have a panoramic view of the surroundings.
- Ganga Aarti ceremony – one of the most captivating experiences in Varanasi is witnessing the Ganga Aarti. A mesmerizing ritual performed every evening at the Dashashwamedh Ghat. As priests chant hymns and sway oil lamps in synchronized motions, the river comes alive with flickering flames, creating an enchanting spectacle that leaves a lasting impression on visitors. This is one of the most iconic ceremonies to witness in India.
- Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple – famous landmark temple to visit in Varanasi.
A FEW CAFES AND RESTAURANTS TO TRY:
- Blue Lassi Shop – try there famous lassi!
- Brown Bread Bakery Varanasi – decent food options for affordable prices.
- Mona Lisa Cafe – our most frequented restaurant in Varanasi.
- Kachaudi Gali – great area for street food.
- ROOTS Restaurant – a top recommendation for high quality food.
VARANASI IS THE ESSENCE OF THE INDIAN EXPERIENCE
If this post has not yet convinced you to visit Varanasi in all of its glory and wander, I hope that it has at least put this cultural destination on your radar for future trips. There is nothing in all of my years of full-time travel that has even come close to what I experienced here. And if you are traveling to India to experience this country in its entirety, then Varanasi needs to be a part of that journey.
I think that makes this place so special is how unique of an experience each traveler can have here. Because the cycle of life and death has different meanings and feelings for each of us. And we can interpret such ceremonies so differently according to what we believe. And to witness death in a way that a person’s life is celebrated and honored in such a beautiful way is extremely heart opening. Pain is alchemised into so much joy, love and gratitude here and I think that is something I have carried with me ever since being witness to what happens here in Varanasi.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
IS VARANASI SAFE FOR TOURISTS?
Yes, Varanasi is generally safe for tourists. I do recommend being aware of your surroundings at night time if you are walking in the busy city part of Varanasi or at crowded gatherings in case of pick pocketing. It is also best to go with a guide into the burning ghats because you will be asked for a sizable donation for the “free” tour of the burning ghats and you might feel pressured to give money when it is not compulsory. Or be made to feel like what you want to give is not enough. My partner and I did give a tip to the man who took us in there and allowed us to witness a ceremony but you can give as much as you are willing to give.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT VARANASI?
The best time to visit is between October and March when the temperatures are cooler. This is also the dry season to the river is low enough to expose the ghats that you can walk along and also take boat rides across the Ganga River. July to September is the monsoon season so it is best to avoid visiting in these months.
HOW MANY DAYS DO YOU NEED IN VARANASI?
If you have a busy itinerary, you could do Varanasi in 2 full days. If you have time to play with on your itinerary, I highly recommend 3 to 4 days. Most people would say 3 days but if you take an extra day, you can really fully immerse in the experience, attend any events happening, go on boat rides, explore the city and markets, visit temples, meet other travelers and slow down at Indian cafes and just enjoy the scenery.
CAN YOU TAKE PHOTOS AT THE CREMATION GHATS?
No, you cannot take photos at the cremation ghats. It is to respect the families who are in ceremony with their loved ones. They have the right to privacy in their ceremony.
YOU MAY ALSO LIKE:
- THE ULTIMATE PUSHKAR TRAVEL GUIDE: BEST THINGS TO DO & SEE IN THE HOLY CITY
- RISHIKESH: THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO THE SPIRITUAL CAPITAL OF INDIA
- 16 OF THE MOST DIVERSE SPIRITUAL AND CULTURAL PLACES IN INDIA – EMBARK ON A POWERFUL JOURNEY
Leave a Reply